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Kanehoa-Hapapa Summit Trail

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Cultural Notes / Hawaiiana


Names of Significant Places and Features

Hapapa (literal translation: 1. n. Rock stratum covered with thin earth; superficial. 2. v. To grope, feel the way, reach for, extend out; to experience, feel.) - Puu Hapapa stands on the south side of Kolekole Pass

Honouliuli (literal translation: dark bay) - This is the name of the preserve and ahupuaa the trail resides in.

Kanehoa (literal translation: companion [of] Kane) - The peak called Puu Kanehoa was named for a god described as the father of Pele (legendary volcano diety who resides on the Big Island).

Maunauna (literal translation: mountain sent [on errands]) - See section below about the legend of Maunauna.


The Legend of the Mo'o at Maunauna

Maunauna is the small hill above the fields of Kunia at the foot of Kanehoa Ridge. The trail initially climbs the 700-ft mound after which the ridgeline begins to narrow and take shape.

The legend states that mo'o (supernatural lizards) once resided here. For a long time, the matriarchal ancestors of these mo'o, called mo'oinanea, regarded Maunauna as one of their favorite mountains. However, they eventually departed to find masters in other areas of the islands to whom they honorably pledged their servitude and loyalty.

It is suggested that two of these mythical lizards were mischevious and did not wish to find nor serve any particular master. This pair of mo'o opted to remain at Maunauna.


The Ancient Lands

According to Revised Laws of Hawaii of 1925, the Kanehoa and Hapapa Ridges reside in the Honouliuli ahupuaa which comprises the western tip of the Ewa District. Puu Kanehoa, Puu Hapapa, and the Waianae crestline between the two peaks all border Lualualei Valley which is part of the Waianae ahupuaa and district.

NOTE: Studies suggest the "ahupuaa" are congruent to ancient districts used hundreds of years ago. See the "Hawaiiana" page for a discussion on district and ahupuaa boundaries.


Section Credits:

Manu, Moses, "The Legend of Keaomelemele", Kuokoa, Apr. 25, 1885

"Oahu Land Divisions" Map, Kamehameha Schools/Hawaiian Studies Institute, 1987.

Pukui, Mary Kawena, et al. Place Names of Hawaii. 2nd ed, University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1974

Pukui, Mary Kawena, et al. Hawaiian Dictionary. 6th ed, University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1986




Usage and Occupants of Lualualei Valley
To the casual passer-by along the leeward coast's Farrington Highway the extent of the military occupation of Lualualei Valley is not readily apparent. The only clue is the small but relatively impressive signage marking the naval base's entry point. However, as one gains elevation on a better vantage point, such as atop the Kalena, Hapapa, Kanehoa, Kaua, Palikea, or Heleakala peaks, and its enormity becomes obvious and astounding.

The U.S. government owns the flat plains of this gigantic valley on which operates one of the military's most important support facilities in the world. Kauaopuu Ridge to the north and the Heleakala Ridge to the south, both of which extend and meet the Waianae crest, marks the border of both Lualualei Valley and the naval facility within. Two major military units call this area home: the U.S. Navy's radio facility and its weapons depot.


U.S. Naval Radio Transmitting Facility Lualualei

Viewed from the coast, this 1,729-acre facility is notable for its two, very tall towers which stand against the backdrop of the Waianae mountains. The red & white towers are the 1,500-foot antennae which serve as the Department of Defense's primary long-range communications transmitters for the central Pacific. To the U.S. Navy, it is officially known as the Naval Radio Transmitting Facility Lualualei or NRTF Lualualei.

Twelve antennae measuring 600-ft in height were originally built after 1933 and activated through 1941. They were overflown by Japanese warplanes during the Dec. 7, 1941 attack. Because of the proven, exposed vulnerability, the station's operations and administration were moved to Wahiawa and the antennae were remotely operated from the new facility.

Today, after several reorganizations and renamings over the decades, the controlling and operating authority over the antennae is known as the U.S. Naval Computer & Telecommunications Area Master Station, Pacific, also known as NCTAMS PAC. This is a 695-acre naval base located in an isolated area on the northeast side of Wahiawa (bordering Schofield Barracks East Range). It operates in six sites around Oahu, but transmits primarily from the antennae in Lualualei and receives transmissions in Wahiawa.

A portion of NRTF Lualualei is dedicated to the Fleet Operational Readiness Accuracy Check Site, also known as FORACS III. Navy and Coast Guard ships use this site's electronic systems to analyze and update certain onboard tracking equipment functions, such as range and bearing accuracy.

On the facility's eastern border (deeper into the valley) and over four times greater in size is the naval magazine.


U.S. Naval Magazine Pearl Harbor (fka U.S. Naval Magazine Lualualei)

Between 1930 to 1931, the U.S. Navy acquired almost 8,000 acres of Lualualei Valley from the Territory of Hawaii and the McCandless Estate (a former cattle ranch). The new weapon's supply depot was commissioned as the Naval Ammunition Depot Oahu in 1934. It was renamed the Naval Magazine Lualualei (NAVMAG Lualualei) in 1974, then Naval Magazine Pearl Harbor in 2000. Today, this giant naval facility continues to be the primary ammunition storage system for the U.S. military presence in Hawaii. It stockpiles and maintains ordnance for all three services of the U.S. Armed Forces: Army, Navy, and Air Force. This includes a significant supply of both conventional and nuclear versions of torpedoes, cruise and ballistic missiles, artillery shells, smart and unguided bombs, and rockets.

NAVMAG Pearl Harbor's mission statement is:

"...to receive, renovate, maintain, store, and issue ammunition, explosives, expendable ordnance items and weapons, and technical ordnance material for the Navy, Air Force, and Army and other activities and units as designated..."

Ordnance Disposal Area
Lualualei Valley floor: Abandoned ordnance disposal area at U.S. Naval Magazine Pearl Harbor's Lualualei facility
Photo by: Navy Region Hawaii, Environmental Programs
Between 1972 and 1977, public and international pressure forced the reassignment of forward-based nuclear weapons in Japan, Taiwan, and the Philippines. Consequently, unretired nuclear weapons were transferred to the magazines in Guam and Lualualei leaving Korea as the only forward area in the Pacific to house nuclear weaponry. The mid-70s shift in the U.S. military policy regarding nuclear proliferation of the Pacific meant nuclear stockpiles in the Pacific were only to be staged as far west as Hawaii and Guam.

In July 1995, the U.S. Navy's magazine in Guam was closed - its functions (and weapons stockpile) were transferred to NAVMAG Lualualei. This made Lualualei Valley the largest and only major cache of U.S. conventional and nuclear weapons in the central and western Pacific.

In April 1998, the weapons production division of Pearl Harbor's Naval Intermediate Maintenance Facility was transferred to NAVMAG Lualualei.

Repair Shop
Lualualei Valley floor: Abandoned repair shop at U.S. Naval Magazine Pearl Harbor's Lualualei facility
Photo by: Navy Region Hawaii, Environmental Programs
In January 2002, the facility name was changed to Naval Magazine Pearl Harbor as its administrative offices moved from Lualualei Valley to its new headquarters building in West Loch. Other than command functions at Pearl Harbor, the name is a misnomer: the main functions are still at Lualualei Valley.

Regarding the structure of the depot's command, there are three branches of NAVMAG Pearl Harbor. The main branch is the overall magazine's headquarters and 7,498-acre storage area at Lualualei Valley. It contains 255 above-ground storage structures capable of housing a total of 78,000-tons of ammunition/explosives.

Two smaller branches, located at Waikele and West Loch, comprise "extensions" of the facility's mission. Both areas contain additional storage and processing space. Altogether, the three branches employ approximately 360 employees, both civilian and military.

The 520-acre Waikele branch storage areas include tunnels embeded into the cliff sides of Waikele Gulch. The gulch can be seen on the north side of H-1 highway between the Waikele and Kunia off-ramps (headed Waianae/westbound). However, it has been considered surplus storage and unoccupied since 1993.

Repair Shop
West Loch Pier, Pearl Harbor: Crews load a 3.8-megaton-yield Trident II-D5 (UGM-133A) nuclear ballistic missile. An U.S. Navy Ohio-class submarine (seen here) can carry 24 SLBMs. Missiles such as these are warehoused at Pearl Harbor and Lualualei Valley.
Photo by: BAE Systems, Ordnance Management & Services
The 3,152-acre West Loch branch is comprised of structures built on the south shore of Pearl Harbor's West Loch and on the Waipio Peninsula (between the West and Middle Loch). West Loch is significant to the Lualualei facility (18 miles away) because it serves as its main ocean shipping/receiving dock. Operations at the piers, located on the south shore of West Loch, support the processing of weapons arriving in Hawaii and as well loading them onto warships. In addition, there are 118 above-ground storage structures capable of housing 20,830-tons of ammunition/explosives. A 1998 report listed 50 W-80-0 nuclear warheads (150-kiloton yield each) for Tomahawk Sea-Launched Cruise Missles and 40 B-61 nuclear aerial gravity bombs (170-kiloton yield) stored here.

NAVMAG Lualualei is home to several smaller military detachments such as those belonging to the U.S. Navy's Undersea Warfare Center, Calibration Laboratory, and Mobile Mine Assembly Units. The U.S. Army Garrison's munitions branch is also here.

There have been 29 sites at both Lualualei facilities investigated by the Navy's Installation Restoration Program in 2001 for hazardous PCB contaminants in the soil. Six transformer sites exceeded federal limitations. The facility maintains four wildlife management areas totalling 680 acres and regularly eradicates feral cattle, goats, and pigs to protect the native ecosystem.

Credits:

Hawaii Military Installations and Training Areas. Public Affairs Office, U.S. Pacific Command Headquarters, Camp Smith, Hawaii. 1998

NCTAMS PAC History. Public Affairs Office, U.S. Naval Computer and Telecommunications, Area Master Station Pacific.

Naval Magazine Lualualei. Public Affairs Office, Commander, U.S. Navy Region Hawaii

"Pearl Harbor Area RAB Fact Sheets: Site Investigations for Various Transformer Sites - NCTAMS PAC Wahiawa, NRTF Lualualei and NAVMAG PH Lualualei Branch, Oahu, Hawaii, April/May 2002". Public Affairs Office, Commander, U.S. Navy Region Hawaii

Lualualei Naval Magazine, BAE Systems Ordnance Management and Services

" NAVMAG Pearl Harbor". September 27, 2002. GlobalSecurity.org, December 12, 2003.

" U.S. Nuclear Reorganization in the Pacific". December 12, 2003. The Nautilus Insitute, Jul 19, 1999.

" US Nuclear Forces, Start of 2002". Institute for Defense & Disarmament Studies. Cambridge MA, 2003



Property/Access - More Details
The following is a breakdown of land parcels this trail either crosses into, borders with, or remains in extremely close vicinity. Remember that a) trails often meander in and out of bordering land parcels - they are not perfect, and b) parcel boundaries, fee ownership, land leases, and policies of both toward hikers are subject to change. In any case, act as prudent, responsible hikers and heed the law of the land.

Trailhead to forest boundary (approx .4-mile)
92-1700 Kunia Rd
Fee Owner: James Campbell Trust Estate (1001 Kamokila Blvd; Kapolei, HI 96707)
Leasee: Del Monte Corporation
Other Accessor: Hawaiian Telephone Company
TMK (zone): 92005002 (conservation)

Kanehoa Ridge and Kunia (east) side of Waianae Crest
(inc. land to the north of ridge and east of Waianae crest, Honouliuli Contour Trail)
Fee Owner: James Campbell Trust Estate (1001 Kamokila Blvd; Kapolei, HI 96707)
Co-Leasee: Robert L. Caldwell Trust (91-590 Farrington Hwy 210)
Co-Leasee: Linda D. Caldwell Trust
Co-Leasee: Nature Conservancy
Co-Leasee: Kama'aina Care Inc.
Co-Leasee: AT&T Wireless
TMK (zone): 92005013 (conservation)

Waianae (west) side of first half of Waianae Crest
(halfway from Puu Kanehoa)
Fee Owner: State of Hawaii
Leasee: none
TMK (zone): 88001010 (agriculture)

Waianae (west) side of second half of Waianae Crest
(halfway from Puu Hapapa)
Fee Owner: United States of America
Leasee: United States Naval Ammunition Depot Lualualei
TMK (zone): 88001001 (agriculture)

Kunia (east) side of Puu Hapapa, Kolekole Pass, and lands to northeast
Owner: United States of America
Leasee: none
TMK (zone): 77001001 (unimproved residential)

Verified with City & County of Honolulu Department of Planning & Permitting June 26, 2002.
It is your responsibility to obtain permission from proper landowners.